Antonia Finnane - Changing Clothes in China. Fashion, History, Nation [2008][A]

Book Description
Publication Date: January 24, 2008 | ISBN-10: 0231143508 | ISBN-13: 978-0231143509 | Edition: 1
Based largely on nineteenth and twentieth-century representations of Chinese dress as traditional and unchanging, historians have long regarded fashion as something peculiarly Western. But in this surprising, sumptuously illustrated book, Antonia Finnane proves that vibrant fashions were a vital part of Chinese life in the late imperial era, when well-to-do men and women showed a keen awareness of what was up-to-date.
Though foreigners who traveled to China in the early decades of the twentieth century came away with the impression that Chinese dress was simple and monotone, the key features of modern fashion were beginning to emerge, especially in Shanghai. Men in blue gowns donned felt caps and leather shoes, girls began to wear fitted jackets and narrow pants, and homespun garments gave way to machine-woven cloth, often made in foreign lands. These innovations marked the start of a far-reaching vestimentary revolution that would transform the clothing culture in urban and much of rural China over the next half century.
Through Finnane's meticulous research, we are able to see how the close-fitting jacket and high collar of the 1911 Revolutionary period, the skirt and jacket-blouse of the May Fourth era, and the military style popular in the Cultural Revolution led to the variegated, globalized wardrobe of today. She brilliantly connects China's modernization and global visibility with changes in dress, offering a vivid portrait of the complex, subtle, and sometimes contradictory ways the people of China have worn their nation on their backs.

Reviews
It is clear from these pages how frequently the world of fashion has turned to China for inspiration.(Susan Salter Reynolds Los Angeles Times)

[A] beautifully illustrated book... with delightful analysis of how gender, class,and nationalism have influenced Chinese fashions through the ages.
(The China Beat)

Finnane has produced an impressive history of modern Chinese fashion and much more. It will be a vital cores text for students of Chinese cultural history for decades to come.(Robert Culp The Journal of Asian Studies 1900-01-00)

Changing Clothes in China is beautifully produced, offering readers a splendid visual presentation of its rich content.(Elisabeth Koll, Harvard Business School Business History Review 1900-01-00)

This book makes important contributions to scholarship in the areas of both history and fashion.(Louise Edwards American Historical Review)

This is the long-awaited, authoritative, and definitive study of fashion in modern China. Antonia Finnane, a pioneer in this area, has accomplished an incredible feat—producing a vigorously-argued book that would advance intellectual debates while remaining accessible to the general reader. This is the first book-length work that situates 'fashion' in historical contexts, from the world trading system and urban development to revolutionary movements in modern China. It will launch fashion study as a serious intellectual endeavor in the field of Chinese studies while appealing to scholars in comparative fields (fashion studies, socioeconomic history, cultural history, and postcolonial studies) and the general reader alike.(Dorothy Ko, Columbia University)

About the Author
Antonia Finnane is reader in history in the School of Historical Studies at the University of Melbourne. She studied at Sydney University, the Beijing Language Institute, and Nanjing University before completing a Ph.D. in Chinese history at the Australian National University. She is the author of Speaking of Yangzhou: A Chinese City, 1550-1850, which was awarded the 2006 Joseph Levenson Book Award for a work on pre-1900 China.